John 3:16

67 RS Drag 2

‘67 Camaro RS drag car additional pics. See description and more pics here.

Sponsored by
5Speed Transmissions

High performance manual transmissions

Notice the custom dash, with the embossed Chevy Bowtie. Nice touch.

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This car even has air conditioning, hanging in upper right corner of this pic.

Believe it or not, that little fan makes a big difference on a hot day.

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This car has some blemishes. Here’s a chip from hitting the inside of the trailer.

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Stock drum brakes. Work fine, no drag like with disc brakes. 

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NO rust on doors or door jams. In fact, no rust anywhere on this car except for some on the floorboards under the car.

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Doors are covered with alum, and could stand to be polished.

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Window net, 5 point harness, full cage.

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Tires still have at least 75% tread. 

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8 gallon fuel cell.  These pics were taken on Dec 30, 2006 after a dusty season in 2004. I didn’t even make it to the track in 2005.  The car is due for it’s spring cleaning as these pics will show.67RsDragCar_2067RsDragCar_19

Shocks rebuilt in 2005 by Aldan Industries. Haven’t even made a single pass since they were rebuilt.

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Dual batteries in trunk, both new in 2004. Installed inside the battery boxes.

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Some good advice. Have you done everything needed? And no sleeping at the light!!

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2 stage rev limiter with GM ignition box. Looks suspiciously like an MSD box....

The wiring could stand to be better tucked away and/or enclosed in some wire looms.

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The FG doghouse is easily removed. 8 bolts, 2 electrical connectors for the fan, and the upper and lower radiator hoses. While the whole assembly is light enough for 1 person to pick up and move around, it takes 2 people to lift it on/off the car.

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Even the rear package tray has nice tin work.

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Again, not all is perfect. The door has hit the fender a few times during openings. Ya gotta adjust that doghouse! DOH!

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So you got this far, you must be at least somewhat interested in this car. What does it need?

  • Neutral Safety switch needs replaced, or fixed. The little tiny clip that pushes the button when the shifter is in neutral keeps popping off. I’ve been pushing it with my finger to start the car.
  • A good solid cleaning. Carpet could use shampooing.
  • The fuel pressure sender needs moved up stream (to other side of the regulator. It works, but since it’s on the wrong side, the pressure will appear to drop to zero near the end of the run. It does not run out of fuel though. 
  • Line lock is kinda goofy, as it’s turned on/off with a toggle switch mounted on the side of the shifter. With a little practice, it’s easy enough to use. I’m sure there’s a better way. That’s just how it was when I bought the and I never changed it.
  • The only tech inspection I’ve “failed” is that the receiver for the window net buckle is on the wrong side of the roll bar. They still let me in, but I’ve never bothered to correct it. The window net isn’t even required until you’re going faster than 6.40.
  • The seat belts are likely to be expired soon (maybe your track doesn’t care)
  • This car has some typical blemishes, 2 are shown above in the pics. The paint is around 10 years old. It’s an old race car that likely looked good enough for a car show after it was redone.  It’s not a perfect car, but runs good, and drives straight.
  • The names of the previous owners/drivers/crew are still painted on the car. I didn’t see the need to spend the money to remove them.
  • The hood scoop is obnoxiously tall. And it takes some getting used to. A car in front and to your right can be totally obscured, and you have to lean over to the right when you’re in the left lane.  I’d personally prefer it to be about 6” lower, but again, didn’t see the need to spend the money to change it.

Why am I selling it? Too many other important things to do in life, and this is not longer a high priority. I didn’t even race it in 2005 because of financial and other priorities.

Contact me: Mike Pell, mjpell@prostreetcar.com